Speaking of the dial, this is where the Zenith Chronomaster Original for Hodinkee mixes things up. We know the fact who actually was first is somewhat debatable, but we’re not going to explain every detail right now. What is beyond a shadow of a doubt, the references A384, A385 and even more so the A386 became true horological icons. Back in 1969 Zenith introduced the very first integrated automatic chronograph movement, and apply named it El Primero, the first one. The story of the El Primero chronograph movement by Zenith is well-documented, and rightfully so as it marks a historical chapter in watchmaking. Here’s the Zenith Chronomaster Original for Hodinkee. Collaborating with our friends and colleagues of Hodinkee, Zenith has now created a special limited edition of the Chronomaster Original, based on the original A386 reference. This has been the star of stand-out watches like the Chronomaster Sport and Chronomaster Original, presented in multiple iterations. In recent times Zenith has put in great strides to update the legendary El Primero architecture, primarily with the El Primero 3600 calibre. With a history stemming back to 1969 when the brand introduced the El Primero movement, it is loved and cherished by many. Roland explains, “It has the major advantage of extending the service interval, but at the same time it brings a nice aesthetic feature to the watch where you can see the violet color of the these parts that are made of silicon instead of traditional metal.The Zenith Chronomaster, in any shape or form, is one of the most enduring and captivating chronograph watches available today. Most notably, the current Chronomaster Power Reserve models use a silicon escape wheel and pallet fork. While the opening may be the same, due to advancements in watchmaking technology, the quality of the visible components have been enhanced. Accordingly, it’s no surprise that it’s the shape they retained for the current collection. While Zenith came out with other open models in the early and mid 2000s that featured various shaped windows, only the Chronomaster Open allowed a complete view of the balance and escapement wheel. While most of the aesthetic lines from this time period have been culled from the current collection, the skeletal opening used on what was then called the “Chronomaster Open” watch is almost identical to that of the current El Primero Chronomaster Power Reserve. The Power Reserve Indicator and lumed tri-spoke second hand of the new Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Power Reserve Charles Vermot The Chronomaster Power Reserve Charles Vermot retails for $9,800 and is limited to 1975 units: 1975 is also the year that Mr. To his delight, the parts and tools were discovered by new ownership and were instrumental in the continuation of Zenith’s mechanical chronographs. Vermot had hoped, the manufacture of automatic chronographs once again became a priority at Zenith. Instead of carrying out this task, he secretly hid away the presses, technical plans, and equipment used in the creation of El Primero. The watch’s namesake, Charles Vermot, was a foreman at Zenith’s factory, and was charged with the task of disassembling Zenith’s El Primero production assembly and selling it off for parts. In the mid 70s, Zenith was sold to American owners who decided to discontinue the manufacture of mechanical chronographs altogether. While Zenith had come out with the first El Primero in 1969 and designed a series of attractive chronographs in the early 1970s, the company struggled financially. The first era that the watch evokes is that of the mechanical watch industry’s struggles during the mid 70s. The skeletal opening on the Chronomaster Power Reserve Charles Vermot Limited Edition is very similar to the shape of the models from the early 2000s, though the watch features modern elements like a silicon pallet fork and escapement wheel.
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